Breeding - i wanted to add a word of warning regarding breeding small pets. Netherland Dwarf rabbits & Breeding guinea pigs carries a high risk for the mother involved not to mention the babies too. i strongly urge people NOT to breed for the following reasons -
I dont recommend Breeding guinea pigs OR Netherland Dwarfs - unless you have the NEEDED experience to do so. best to start out by volunteering to work close with a breeder or start out breeding with the help of other breeders on call for advice
please note : warning when breeding - if you are buying a guinea pig for breeding purposes they must be bred around 5 months & have their first litter before 8-9 months. as after this age the pelvic bones fuse making it impossible for the sow to birth & this is fatal. also the sow should be in top health & weigh at least 200 grams or more before attempting to breed her. a guinea pig over 9 months who has never had a litter has a 85% chance she will die. breeding pigs is a specialized game & anyone wanting to breed pigs really needs to research it well. breeding really is NOT a profit game with feed, housing, bedding, vet bills ect SO often you will be in the red. plus you will have to feed, house & care for all piglets for 6 weeks or more before they can be homed. and care for the offspring even longer if they are not sold.
if you MUST breed please research breeding pigs carefully, be prepared & contact a Good breeder
- if the mum is NOT from good healthy foundation stock then you may well lose her & all the babies she is carrying due to health issues. vet bills for pregnancy issues can be high.
- who is buying your offspring ??? all to often i see hobby breeders supplying pet stores with their pets offspring or offering them cheap to anyone even at car boot sales :(
- where do these pets end up ??? far to often i see or help unwanted small pets, poorly & neglected left in pet stores. in the hands of cruel owners or in rescue centers PLEASE take time & care finding homes for the animals you breed.
- what happens if you cant sell the babies you have bred ??? do you have the EXTRA time & ROOMfor the one's no one wants ??? remember if they are baby boars you may need extra housing cages as they may fight.
- what happens if poor foundation stock result in genetic/deformed/ill offspring ??? do you have the CASH to spare for heavy vet bills ???
- do you know enough about genetics & color combination's ??? if you DONT you could end up breeding lethel piglets or peanut dwarfs rabbits.
- who are you supplying ??? cruel or kind owners ??? pet stores ??? good or bad breeders ??? will you know the difference ???
- are you willing to accept back a pet the new owner no longer wants ??? you are the breeder responsible for breeding that pet.
- how will you handle the loss, if you lose a mother & her litter ??? can you handle feeling guilty or responsible for breeding her ???
- do you know enough about breeding to be ready for any problems the mother may have ???
I dont recommend Breeding guinea pigs OR Netherland Dwarfs - unless you have the NEEDED experience to do so. best to start out by volunteering to work close with a breeder or start out breeding with the help of other breeders on call for advice
please note : warning when breeding - if you are buying a guinea pig for breeding purposes they must be bred around 5 months & have their first litter before 8-9 months. as after this age the pelvic bones fuse making it impossible for the sow to birth & this is fatal. also the sow should be in top health & weigh at least 200 grams or more before attempting to breed her. a guinea pig over 9 months who has never had a litter has a 85% chance she will die. breeding pigs is a specialized game & anyone wanting to breed pigs really needs to research it well. breeding really is NOT a profit game with feed, housing, bedding, vet bills ect SO often you will be in the red. plus you will have to feed, house & care for all piglets for 6 weeks or more before they can be homed. and care for the offspring even longer if they are not sold.
if you MUST breed please research breeding pigs carefully, be prepared & contact a Good breeder
About Rabbit Breeds -
After 15 years of owning many different breeds of rabbits. 3 breeds have stolen my heart. but i settled on my favorite breed of all the Lionhead & i now take great pride in owning & breeding them. small to medium fancy breed who does well not only in the show world but also as companions. intelligent, comical & easy to care for. i have included some Basic breed information here to help buyers understand a wee bit more about lionheads .
Lionhead - one of the most popular fancy breeds of rabbit in Ireland in the recent years. available in Single, Double & Grand double maned (aka GDM or Teddy) coats. the single mane variety is easier with little coat to care for. HOWEVER the double & grand double maned varieties make wonderful pets some are so docile they are like a small dog. IF the owner can provide enough grooming. 15 mins twice a week is enough to keep them in shape OR owners can join the NEW craze in Ireland where GDM lionheads are clipped to produce a coat in appearance to that of a poodle dog :) these are VERY sweet natured rabbits suitable for young & older handlers. alot of breeders PASS OFF their GDM lionheads as ANGORA rabbits they are NOT. Angoras are NOT found in Ireland & the GDM lionheads coat is too soft to spin into wool. My lionheads are top producers of very fluffy offspring. all my rabbits are graded as double & grand double manes. truly BEAUTIFUL, soft & playful little pets. They WILL keep & maintain very fluffy coats unlike some lionheads who hit maturity & all the coat falls out. i own 3 GDM lionheads here Cotton & Castle & Cassie who are as sweet as they are beautiful.
Guinea Pig Breeds - with 10 official pure breeds of guinea pig it can be hard to make the right choice of what breed to take home. then there are also crossbreds & un-official new breeds. every breed is bred for its own purpose by breeders who wanted a certain look or function for their animals SO with this in mind you should start to consider a few points before deciding on WHAT YOU WANT in a new companion :) you NEED to ask yourself a few questions before choosing a piggie. What type of coat will i be able to care for ??? there are 5 coats types in guinea pigs. Rough, Smooth, Semi, Long & hairless. it is recommended for beginners or less experienced owners to keep smooth or semi coated guinea pigs which require FAR less grooming, bathing & care. Long coated varieties are best suited for more experienced or dedicated owners.
Smooth Haired - the most common breed/type available world wide. a more traditional pig closest resembling their wild relatives. Excellent for beginners with Little maintenance needed. they have short, tight glossy hair. they tend to be longer lived & hardy wee things.
Abyssinian - considered a semi short coated breed well known for its rough or harsh coating, that parts & forms many rosette or swirls. an idea show Abyssinian has 8 rosettes on its body located on the shoulders, hips, back & rump. they again are hardy great for beginners too. they tend to be smaller then other breeds and more active highly strung and nippy however there are some lovely sweet examples.
Peruvian - the FIRST long coated breed developed & is foundation for all other long haired breeds. it has a long, luxury coat all over the body growing forward towards the face & then falls down to form equal amounts of long coating on either side. the coat can reach in excess of 20 inches in some show Peruvians. it is recommended to trim the coat to avoid knots. they require a good groom a few times a week. most long haired breeds are more prone to SKINconditions. most breeders keep the coats of their breeding stock esp sows trimmed back. while they keep the boars or show stock in full coat. the coat grows quite fast so if clipped will soon return. buyers should BE AWARE that most Peruvians seen online at shows worldwide DO NOT look like most Peruvians which can be bought, these guinea pigs get the BEST care for their coating, hair supplements to encourage coat growth & are bred for coat ONLY. however good breeder will have some beautiful pigs to offer if they come from good bloodlines :) loving temperament easy to handle. they grow larger then other breeds & are quite cheeky too.
Sheltie - also known as the silkie. a long coated breed which hair flows back from the head along the body & down either side. NEVER over the face like a Peruvian. a good choice for someone moving on from smooth coated breeds to a longer coat with less maintenance then the Peruvian. they have a very sweet temperament & are considered one of the quietest & most friendly breeds of pig. my personal favorite.
Skinny, Baldwin or Hairless - Skinnies were developed from a hairless lab strain crossed with Teddies. They have curly Teddy hair on their noses, feet and legs. Skinnies are born nearly hairless. The Baldwin was a spontaneous mutation from White Crested cavies belonging to a cavy fancier who was breeding them for show. Baldwins are born with a full coat which falls out until they are bald. The Baldwin is characterized by numerous skin wrinkles and a very small amount of hair just on the feet only. The Skinny and the Baldwin are two separate breeds and the two different hairless genes are not compatible. Hairless breeds require special consideration when breeding, ACCOMMODATION, care etc as they need to be kept warm and may require extra food. Currently a few Scandinavian bodies permit hairless breeds on to the show table, and consequently a standard of perfection. they need care taken and are rarely allowed to play outside as they can be sunburned badly or get chills/hypothermia from rain, wind or even drafts.
Lunkarya - a Rare New breed developed through crossing Peruvians & Rex. it has a VERY unusual coat that is needs alot of care. live the peruvian the coat can get very long. the name means Sheep Like and its only right i have my boar named shaun the sheep then ;) NOT a suitable pig for first time owners. it is VERY popular in Sweden but due to the lack of devoted breeders & owners in most of Europe this breed FAILS to become more popular. though i have to add i do ADORE these very special pigs they have a nice temper & an unusual appearance indeed :) i was the first breeder to import & breed Lunkarya cavies in the republic of ireland.
Crested - Another popular smooth coated breed for beginners. with a BEAUTIFUL crest (single rosette) parting the hair on the forehead it makes for a much desired pet. something a little different from the standard smooth coat. good breeding produces a large open flat top crest. small crests are a breed fault. the American Crested is a Rarer & very beautiful pig with a solid body coloring BUT must have a white CREST & NO other white present on the pig. the English crested has a crest the SAME color as the body. they make great pets easy to care for, require little coat care & have a calm loving nature.
Rex & Teddy - Both short coated breeds. Rex & teddy look very alike but the REX coat is more bristly. sadly these breeds can be prone to SKIN PROBLEMS IF the owner doesn't not keep a eye on the coating & skin regularly. they are the foundation breed used for developing the Swiss. both teddy & rex can be smaller more nervous breeds and very very aggressive to each other in boars. i advise a mixture of a teddy/rex with a calmer breed like a sheltie to ensure to head to head conflicts.
Alpaca - a long wavy coated breed developed by crossing Peruvians until breeders perfected the standard. often confused with the texel who in MOST cases looks very alike. alpaca coat like the peru MUST fall towards & over the face. again a breed that MUST get alot of coat care from its owner. they are nice quite animals.
Sheba - a BEAUTIFUL breed resulted from crossing Abyssinian & Peruvians. a semi long coated breed. look alot like an abyssinian but they have longer coating on the body & extra long rump hair. great choice for someone wanting something a little different BUT easier to care for then LONG haired breeds. i was the FIRST breeder in Ireland to develop & offer my own lines of Sheba's. the hair often produces a RAINBOW like curve of coat on the rump. this breed is adored by many for its funny, unusual & cheerful appearance. my caviary was the first to develop the sheba breed in ireland.
Swiss - a long haired breed with an unusual coat developed from the teddy breed so is sometimes known as the SWISS TEDDY they have a rough semi long coat that is always has a dull or Matt Finnish to the coat it never has a shine.
Coronet - a breed that presents a Crest on the forehead similar to the crested smooth (above) BUT is long haired. they have a wonderful calm nature & coating similar to that of the sheltie. one of my fav breeds.
Merino - A curly-coated Coronet. Like all the curly coated breeds Sawdust bedding is not a good option for them it gets caught in their fur causing it to tangle.
Ridgeback - The Ridgeback is a recognized breed in the UK and is show under the guidance of the Rare Varieties cavy club. It is characteristically smooth-coated, other than a ridge of hair growing along its back.
Texel - a BEAUTIFUL RARE breed developed from crossing shelties until breeders perfected the curled coating. however the coat is can be hard to maintain due to the curls/wrinklets which is often plagued with knots & bits the coat picks up during the day. they have a curlier coat but still often confused with the alpaca. texel MUST have a coat of a sheltie but curly.
Everything you need to know to get started -Guinea pigs - are small shy natured creatures. Females are called SOWS & WEIGHT between 800-1200 grams. Males are called BOARS & weigh between 900-1500 grams. they make ideal pets because they are very rarely known to bite. they are easy to keep & require less attention then rabbits do. they take up far less ROOM & attention too. they are very social animals & should be kept in pairs. sows can be kept in herds of up to 10. boars are best suited in well bonded pair OR some sadly are housed alone as they can be dominant towards other males. ideal for small homes, busy or working long hours owners who want to come home to a clean apartment & spend some time with their pet. the adverage lifespan is 3-5 years though not uncommon to see them reach 6-8 years. my eldest was 9 years old.
After 15 years of owning many different breeds of rabbits. 3 breeds have stolen my heart. but i settled on my favorite breed of all the Lionhead & i now take great pride in owning & breeding them. small to medium fancy breed who does well not only in the show world but also as companions. intelligent, comical & easy to care for. i have included some Basic breed information here to help buyers understand a wee bit more about lionheads .
Lionhead - one of the most popular fancy breeds of rabbit in Ireland in the recent years. available in Single, Double & Grand double maned (aka GDM or Teddy) coats. the single mane variety is easier with little coat to care for. HOWEVER the double & grand double maned varieties make wonderful pets some are so docile they are like a small dog. IF the owner can provide enough grooming. 15 mins twice a week is enough to keep them in shape OR owners can join the NEW craze in Ireland where GDM lionheads are clipped to produce a coat in appearance to that of a poodle dog :) these are VERY sweet natured rabbits suitable for young & older handlers. alot of breeders PASS OFF their GDM lionheads as ANGORA rabbits they are NOT. Angoras are NOT found in Ireland & the GDM lionheads coat is too soft to spin into wool. My lionheads are top producers of very fluffy offspring. all my rabbits are graded as double & grand double manes. truly BEAUTIFUL, soft & playful little pets. They WILL keep & maintain very fluffy coats unlike some lionheads who hit maturity & all the coat falls out. i own 3 GDM lionheads here Cotton & Castle & Cassie who are as sweet as they are beautiful.
Guinea Pig Breeds - with 10 official pure breeds of guinea pig it can be hard to make the right choice of what breed to take home. then there are also crossbreds & un-official new breeds. every breed is bred for its own purpose by breeders who wanted a certain look or function for their animals SO with this in mind you should start to consider a few points before deciding on WHAT YOU WANT in a new companion :) you NEED to ask yourself a few questions before choosing a piggie. What type of coat will i be able to care for ??? there are 5 coats types in guinea pigs. Rough, Smooth, Semi, Long & hairless. it is recommended for beginners or less experienced owners to keep smooth or semi coated guinea pigs which require FAR less grooming, bathing & care. Long coated varieties are best suited for more experienced or dedicated owners.
Smooth Haired - the most common breed/type available world wide. a more traditional pig closest resembling their wild relatives. Excellent for beginners with Little maintenance needed. they have short, tight glossy hair. they tend to be longer lived & hardy wee things.
Abyssinian - considered a semi short coated breed well known for its rough or harsh coating, that parts & forms many rosette or swirls. an idea show Abyssinian has 8 rosettes on its body located on the shoulders, hips, back & rump. they again are hardy great for beginners too. they tend to be smaller then other breeds and more active highly strung and nippy however there are some lovely sweet examples.
Peruvian - the FIRST long coated breed developed & is foundation for all other long haired breeds. it has a long, luxury coat all over the body growing forward towards the face & then falls down to form equal amounts of long coating on either side. the coat can reach in excess of 20 inches in some show Peruvians. it is recommended to trim the coat to avoid knots. they require a good groom a few times a week. most long haired breeds are more prone to SKINconditions. most breeders keep the coats of their breeding stock esp sows trimmed back. while they keep the boars or show stock in full coat. the coat grows quite fast so if clipped will soon return. buyers should BE AWARE that most Peruvians seen online at shows worldwide DO NOT look like most Peruvians which can be bought, these guinea pigs get the BEST care for their coating, hair supplements to encourage coat growth & are bred for coat ONLY. however good breeder will have some beautiful pigs to offer if they come from good bloodlines :) loving temperament easy to handle. they grow larger then other breeds & are quite cheeky too.
Sheltie - also known as the silkie. a long coated breed which hair flows back from the head along the body & down either side. NEVER over the face like a Peruvian. a good choice for someone moving on from smooth coated breeds to a longer coat with less maintenance then the Peruvian. they have a very sweet temperament & are considered one of the quietest & most friendly breeds of pig. my personal favorite.
Skinny, Baldwin or Hairless - Skinnies were developed from a hairless lab strain crossed with Teddies. They have curly Teddy hair on their noses, feet and legs. Skinnies are born nearly hairless. The Baldwin was a spontaneous mutation from White Crested cavies belonging to a cavy fancier who was breeding them for show. Baldwins are born with a full coat which falls out until they are bald. The Baldwin is characterized by numerous skin wrinkles and a very small amount of hair just on the feet only. The Skinny and the Baldwin are two separate breeds and the two different hairless genes are not compatible. Hairless breeds require special consideration when breeding, ACCOMMODATION, care etc as they need to be kept warm and may require extra food. Currently a few Scandinavian bodies permit hairless breeds on to the show table, and consequently a standard of perfection. they need care taken and are rarely allowed to play outside as they can be sunburned badly or get chills/hypothermia from rain, wind or even drafts.
Lunkarya - a Rare New breed developed through crossing Peruvians & Rex. it has a VERY unusual coat that is needs alot of care. live the peruvian the coat can get very long. the name means Sheep Like and its only right i have my boar named shaun the sheep then ;) NOT a suitable pig for first time owners. it is VERY popular in Sweden but due to the lack of devoted breeders & owners in most of Europe this breed FAILS to become more popular. though i have to add i do ADORE these very special pigs they have a nice temper & an unusual appearance indeed :) i was the first breeder to import & breed Lunkarya cavies in the republic of ireland.
Crested - Another popular smooth coated breed for beginners. with a BEAUTIFUL crest (single rosette) parting the hair on the forehead it makes for a much desired pet. something a little different from the standard smooth coat. good breeding produces a large open flat top crest. small crests are a breed fault. the American Crested is a Rarer & very beautiful pig with a solid body coloring BUT must have a white CREST & NO other white present on the pig. the English crested has a crest the SAME color as the body. they make great pets easy to care for, require little coat care & have a calm loving nature.
Rex & Teddy - Both short coated breeds. Rex & teddy look very alike but the REX coat is more bristly. sadly these breeds can be prone to SKIN PROBLEMS IF the owner doesn't not keep a eye on the coating & skin regularly. they are the foundation breed used for developing the Swiss. both teddy & rex can be smaller more nervous breeds and very very aggressive to each other in boars. i advise a mixture of a teddy/rex with a calmer breed like a sheltie to ensure to head to head conflicts.
Alpaca - a long wavy coated breed developed by crossing Peruvians until breeders perfected the standard. often confused with the texel who in MOST cases looks very alike. alpaca coat like the peru MUST fall towards & over the face. again a breed that MUST get alot of coat care from its owner. they are nice quite animals.
Sheba - a BEAUTIFUL breed resulted from crossing Abyssinian & Peruvians. a semi long coated breed. look alot like an abyssinian but they have longer coating on the body & extra long rump hair. great choice for someone wanting something a little different BUT easier to care for then LONG haired breeds. i was the FIRST breeder in Ireland to develop & offer my own lines of Sheba's. the hair often produces a RAINBOW like curve of coat on the rump. this breed is adored by many for its funny, unusual & cheerful appearance. my caviary was the first to develop the sheba breed in ireland.
Swiss - a long haired breed with an unusual coat developed from the teddy breed so is sometimes known as the SWISS TEDDY they have a rough semi long coat that is always has a dull or Matt Finnish to the coat it never has a shine.
Coronet - a breed that presents a Crest on the forehead similar to the crested smooth (above) BUT is long haired. they have a wonderful calm nature & coating similar to that of the sheltie. one of my fav breeds.
Merino - A curly-coated Coronet. Like all the curly coated breeds Sawdust bedding is not a good option for them it gets caught in their fur causing it to tangle.
Ridgeback - The Ridgeback is a recognized breed in the UK and is show under the guidance of the Rare Varieties cavy club. It is characteristically smooth-coated, other than a ridge of hair growing along its back.
Texel - a BEAUTIFUL RARE breed developed from crossing shelties until breeders perfected the curled coating. however the coat is can be hard to maintain due to the curls/wrinklets which is often plagued with knots & bits the coat picks up during the day. they have a curlier coat but still often confused with the alpaca. texel MUST have a coat of a sheltie but curly.
Everything you need to know to get started -Guinea pigs - are small shy natured creatures. Females are called SOWS & WEIGHT between 800-1200 grams. Males are called BOARS & weigh between 900-1500 grams. they make ideal pets because they are very rarely known to bite. they are easy to keep & require less attention then rabbits do. they take up far less ROOM & attention too. they are very social animals & should be kept in pairs. sows can be kept in herds of up to 10. boars are best suited in well bonded pair OR some sadly are housed alone as they can be dominant towards other males. ideal for small homes, busy or working long hours owners who want to come home to a clean apartment & spend some time with their pet. the adverage lifespan is 3-5 years though not uncommon to see them reach 6-8 years. my eldest was 9 years old.
Rabbits - are more out-going then guinea pigs & love to explore. they climb, jump, open & get interested in all around them. they demand more time then pigs & more room too. females are called DOES & males are called BUCKS. they can even bond well with other family pets such as cats & dogs. the BEST pairing of rabbits is a doe with a neutered buck. as same gender pairs can often fight quite badly when they hit sexual maturity at about 5 months old. advertage lifespan for rabbits is 5-8 years although some reach 10-14 years. Lionheads are one of the best breeds to have as a companion rabbit. they enjoy human company & are along the lines of a cat or dog in temperament/nature. they are genrally very healthy & long lived. rabbits make NO NOISE other then a soft grunt or stamping their feet. the fur that grows of the lionhead is referred to as the mane & is graded depending on how thick this coating is these grades are single, double & grand double manes.
Where to get your new pet from –
Rescues - Rescues are a nice way of helping out the unwanted pet community. Often there are small pets needing a kind home, however most pets in rescues will be older, may have bad habits or require medication. There is ALWAYS a reason someone gave them away so think carefully about what may be wrong with the pet & what you may be expected to take on. Usually pets in a rescue are store pets which are often mass bred or in-bred & will have shorter lifespans. there are very few rescues who take in small pets so be prepared to travel. Ask the Rescue as many questions as you may need & see how much information they can provide you on the pets temperament, health, background & more. alot of rescued animals can still make LOVING pets & just need someone to take a chance on them :) Contact you local rescue for a list of rescues whom have or take in small pets. some people like myself rescue & take in unwanted small pets but im NOT a rescue or charity but often have rescued pets needing homes.
Beware of pet stores & bad breeders – I NEVER recommend buying at a pet store. Almost all pet stores use mass breeders who keep their pets in large groups where inbreeding occurs, creating weak offspring & breeding in genetic ailments & short life spans. They skimp on their pets care & needs to save on costs. Usually pets supplied to stores are rejects, they are unwell, pregnant, inbred & very often transported great distances causing un-necessary stress to the poor animal. If you buy from a store you will have much the same kinds of risks as buying from a bad breeder. I have come across many breeders selling pets FAR cheaper then private breeders, but often these breeders are housing their animals in poor, dark conditions, feeding them on cheap or wrong foods, not supplying fresh grass/veg/fruit & their animals are usually not raised right or handled. if a breeder is selling pets for 5, 10 or even 15 euro then QUESTION the breeder as to the amount of care, bedding, feed & more they supply to both their breeding stock & the babies - it is IMPOSSIBLE for a breeder to provide FULL CARE for their pets IF they are only charging a small amount for the babies. veg is quite expensive along with hay, bedding, treats, cages, vet care, treatments, dry food & more.Often their breeding females are repeatedly bred to the extent of physical exhaustion causing illness & even death of the poor mothers. A breeding Doe/Sow should not be covered in sores or be bald this is NOT natural for a breeding stock as some breeders may tell you. However it is natural for a breeding Doe rabbit to pull out her mane & belly hair to make a nest for her new babies. sadly babies are usually short lived or ill at time of purchase which brakes the hearts of their new owners who do not get the full pleasure of owning a happy healthypet. Lice, skin & breathing problems ect will cost the new owners much in vet fees. Rabbits are very hard to sex before 10 weeks of age this is a FACT & so they are usually sexed wrong or sold pregnant in stores or from bad breeders. The breeding stock used by bad breeders are of the lowest Quality. with poor bloodlines & poor health, in turn breeding these problems into their offspring. You are also at risk of buying pets too young or old. Never buy a pet you feel sorry for, I know its hard, but if you buy a neglected animal this only encourages bad breeders to breed even more, while you think you are doing a good thing keep in mind that for every pet you take home there is another poor animal to take its place. if a breeder doesn't appear to care too much or know anything about the animals they are selling then WORRY. Most pet stores only have a 24 - 48 hour return policy if the animal dies or is found to be ill, but most illnesses DONT show themselves in such a short period. standard quarantine is usually 2 weeks. Always remember pet stores are in the game for profit ONLY so if a pet in their care falls ill it is often left in a corner to die they will not take them to a vet as this costs MONEY. store & bad breeders pets are not usually handled at all so they tend to be timid & even aggressive. They may even be housed with other aggressive animals which can cause injuries, fear & even emotional problems. If you buy at a store you can NOT see the parents, you wont know the true history, bloodlines or temperament. Bad breeders & stores are unable to provide correct or helpful information for new owners & in FACT will often provide a buyer with bad information & tell a few lies to sell their animals (I know ive been lied to alot by stores) Remember that when breeders have rejected offspring that they cant breed, sell privately or show they often end up in the pet store. ask yourself why the breeders aren't selling or keeping them ???
guinea pigs - commonly suffer from minor problems like Lice, Mites & Fleas can cause scratching. Mites can be treated with ivermectin 1% one drop on the back of the ear. OR a simply human lice solution from the chemist, I use LYCLEAR CREME bath piggies, semi dry, apply creme DO NOT let them lick it off, wait 10 mins then wash off. repeat in 2 days if needed. for fungal infections another VERY common problem yet simple to treat use DAKTARIN cream available at your chemist, apply to the infected area twice a day for 3 days & then wait to see if hair starts to re-grow in that area. OR for more serious cases or cases of ringworm use Malsalab available from your vets. guinea pigs need to be handled with care & are NOT suitedable for young children under 10 years unless completely supervised & sitting calming. if a guinea falls from a hight of over 1ft they can break their short forelegs, break their jaw, break teeth & even break their necks.Pododermatitis (bumblefoot) is a swelling of one or more of the feet this can be caused by poor living conditions, lack of cleanliness, dryness in the feet, damage to the feet OR cages with wire bottoms. Aging pigs can sometimes get bumble foot even in a clean environment. Bumble foot is a painful problem that if left untreated can be fatal. it can usually be cured with a course of antibiotics from your vet. Avoid antibiotics which include amoxicillin & penicillen as these are toxic to pigs & some vets may not know this. Prevention is the best cure by keeping your pigs home clean, as bacteria from their droppings is often what causes bumblefoot. use a soothing cream on the feet like the paws range of ointments available from GG in the UK. A common problem with guinea pigs is barbering, the chewing of each others hair.. Barbering is often linked with stress due to lack of freedom, bordom, lack of hay & to many pigs being housed together. so feed extra hay because guinea pigs have a un-stoppable natural urge to always graze. prevent boredom by providing plenty of toys & hides. Be sure to rotate their toys & hides to give them a new adventure daily. The Signs of a healthy guinea pig are clean bright eyes, full chunky & slightly rounded body, soft full coat with no smell, eats & drinks normally with no difficulty, normal dropping with no smell or diarrhea. Its important that you give you pig a weekly check over to keep an eye out for illness, lice, overgrown teeth, WEIGHT maintenance & movement issues. So when you are cleaning out, take some time to give your pig a good check over. Pigs love the sun as much as we do & will lie out in it & soak up the warmth, but they are susceptible to sun stoke & sunburn on their little ears. so provide plenty of shade in the run & use a small dab of sudocrem or suncream on the ears to prevent them burning. coprophagy - eating their droppings normal & natural practice for them. The protein content of these droppings is important for the animals health and you should not stop them doing it. It can't transmit disease. usually this is done during the night-time anyways & if they are seen eating droppings too often they may be lacking much needed vitamins etc.Scurvy is a common problem in pigs who aren't getting the require amounts of VIT C this is fatal if left untreated. increase vit C levels at once & provide a clean, calm environment for the pig to regain his strength. Symptoms of scurvy include limping/hopping motions, dull/parting coat, resting on one side, screaming/whimpering when picked up & flaking skin. they MUST get fresh veg esp ones high in vit C to survive. Guinea pigs cannot pass any diseases to humans, but we can give them our colds, so if you have a cold, don’t breathe on your pet, and make sure to wash your hands before handling it. piggies are suseptable to the cold more so then rabbits & should be kept indoors from at least september until april. spaying or neutering is not ideal for guinea pigs has it carries a high risk of death while under anesthetic, injury, stress, its painful & often we see after surgery complications like infections that can be fatal. there is NO NEED to get this done with guinea pigs simply house them in same sex pairs to avoid unwnated litters. buy from an experienced breeder who can sex them correctly.
RABBITS - rabbits like all other animals can also suffer from a range of common ailments. hardier then guinea pigs with regards to the cold weather but must still be well bedded & preferablly indoors or inside a shed during the winter months. Canker - caused by tiny ear mites seen as a blackish, crusty discharge or build up inside the ear. shaking the head often & scratching is a clear sign to check the ears. you can purchases drops from your vets to treat. clean the rabbits home area well & disinfect to get rid of any mites. Coccidiosis - a serious & worrying illness which is caused by dirty living area, dirty drinking/food area or can be caught from other rabbits carrying the problem. the rabbit losses WEIGHT quickly, has diarrheoa & will sit hunched up & very sick looking. this can be prevented by feeding pellets with Coccidiostat added, avoid putting young rabbits under 5 months on grass, avoid weaning rabbits under 8 weeks & avoid mixing around/sharing rabbits housing. Pasterella - also known commonly as Snuffles as highly contagious virus that can wipe out an entire rabbitry in a few days. there is NO vaccination available to prevent this. a rabbit with snuffles MUST be isolated from all others & usually putting them to sleep is for the best even if they survive they WILL remain a carrier & infect healthy rabbits within breathing/touch distance. it can be caused by stress, a new rabbit that carries the illness being introduced to the home & poor ventalation. sadly some people rehome rabbits that have recovered from snuffles YET remain carriers for the virus & these rehomed rabbits infect other peoples healthy pets. signs are nasal discharge, weeping eyes, wet on the front feet from wiping their own eyes/nose & sneezing. if you intend to keep an infected & semi recovered rabbit it will require antibiotics for the rest of its life & you CAN NOT rehome, own other rabbits or even visit your local store without remembering to wash your hands well as not to spread the illness. Myxo - another highly contagious & lethal illness there is NO cure for this. signs are simalar to snuffles BUT they will also have other signs such as bulging eyes, puss filled swellings around the face & WEIGHT LOSS. they must be put to sleep humanly at your vet ASAP. there is a vaccination available to prevent this. Conjunctivitis is an inflammation of the eye can be caused by many things such as a buck spraying urine into the eye, draughts, ammonia, fumes, dust & even injuries. anti-inflammitry eye drops can be got at your vet to treat. does are likely to get this during mating with a buck so check her regulary. again heat stress can kill a rabbit quicker then you may think always provide plenty of shade on warm days. Rabbits with soiled hutches/cages or matted coats are susceptable to fly strike & skin rashes. fly-stike occurs in warmer weather when flies lay their eggs in the damp soiled area of coat, when the eggs hatch maggots begin to bury inside your rabbits skin & release toxins, cause infections, cause blood poisoning & eat them form the inside out. it can KILL so please inspect your pet regulary. please keep the coats well groomed or clipped. keep the house area dry & clean too every 3 - 7 days. Malloclusion - a worrying problem where a rabbits teeth become over-grown, mis-alined or start to grow odd ways. usually carried in the bloodlines so lways check a rabbits parents teeth too. provide checking wood, chewing blocks, rough hay & woods toys to reduce issues of over-growing teeth. NEVER EVER breed from a rabbit with malloclusion. like guinea pigs rabbits produce droppings called Caeotrophs which they eat usually at night to gain vitamins etc. so dont be alarmed by this. it you find these oddly colored droppings often in your pets cage then its likely they are receiving too much feed. if you see very soft, gooey or very smelly poo stuck to your rabbits hind or in the cage this is BAD NEWS & you must see a vet ASAP. young bunnies esp between 10-18 weeks are prone to tummy problems from stress, fresh greens, weaning, change in diet or infection of the gut. If you find your rabbit is lethargic, not eating and/or drinking, has diarrhea or constipation, a bloated stomach which may sound 'sloshy', a mucous discharge, and may be grinding his teeth (a sure sign of pain), you MUST get him to a vet
immediately. Sadly, death is all too common from these symptoms. rabbits can be vaccinated against viral haemorrhagic disease (VHD). Vaccinations are usually only necessary if you are showing, boarding or have other rabbits around you rabbit. However I have never vaccinated & have never had any problems
with either of these diseases. Spaying & Neutering are ideal ways to curb aggression in rabbits, unwanted beaviours like mounting, biting, chasing & false pregnancies too. its BEST to get at least the males neutered to reduce the rabbit pollulation sice a doe can have a litter of 5+ babies every 28 days if left in with a buck :( please remember that a buck can still be fertile up to 3 weeks after the Op & can still produce babies with your doe. this Op can be done at 14+ weeks for bucks & 5+ months for does. does can be susceptible to reproductive cancer so spaying will rule this risk out also. Most vets will happily take your MONEY to neuter your pigs even if it dies during the operation you will still have to pay for your vets time.
Housing -
NEVER EVER house a guinea pig with a rabbit. DONT DO IT ! i know many foolish pet stores, breeders & even rescues house them together but its VERY WRONG. rabbits & pigs have different dierty needs. pigs have no natural defences but rabbits have powerful hind legs, jaws & larger body mass which they often use to bully a pig :( this will result in a very un-happy & possibly injured pig. pigs & rabbits can not communicate to one another which can often lead to mis-understanding s what cause fights to break out. this is a more lonely & more risky life for your pig then being housed alone. housing these 2 pets together is a lazy owners way of keeping down costs & space. rabbits carry a bacteria called Bordetella which causes phneumonia in guinea pigs. pigs can cause snuffles/pasterella in rabbits. housing them together WILL reduce their lifespan by half. rabbits LOVE space so the bigger the hutch/cage the better nothing smaller then a 4x2ft for 2 small/medium bunnies & a 3x2ft for a single bunny. although i prefer a 6x2ft house a great size for 2 bunnies. guinea pigs require less ROOM but should still have at the least a 3x2ft cage/hutch preferablly 4x2ft for 2 piggies. bigger is always better of course so feel free to build them a dream home with C&C or wood. rabbits chew FAR MORE then guinea pigs so metal or heavy duty wooden hutches or indoor wire cages are BEST. most store bought hutches are made from soft wood & some even have a nice smelling additive sprayed on the wood to encourage chewing so you will need a new hucth every year if it even lasts you that long. line your new pets home with shavings, carefresh bedding or fleece. DONT use newspaper the ink can run & they can get sick from eating it. the housing should be placed in a draft free area, out of direct sunlight too. i recommend pets be housed indoors during colder months. your pet will need a run for excersie too. it should be secure, strong with a lid & base if possible. it should have a shaded part to protect from the sun also. indoor wire fold away runs are ideal too that can be lined with fleece. if you allow your pet to play in part of your home dont forget to PET PROOF the area be it the living room or spare room. remove all cables from reach, remove poisonous indoor plants & any other items that can be a risk to your pet. DONT allow them to play on the floor of a room that has been treated recently with harsh chemicals such as some floor cleaners, sprays or powders. keep your pets warm with a fleece cover at night DONT USE plastic covers some stores sell as they create condensation which can make your pets home damp & even lead to your pet being cold or ill. Never keep your pet in a used garage the fumes from cars can kill or make them sick. Never hosue them in glass green houses, conservatories, porches or polytunnels. guinea pigs LOVE to hide so they should have a hide house available in their home for when they need to feel safe.
toys -
Never use a guinea pig harness, which you will often see in pet stores. these are cruel & often will ruin a bond with your pig. Pigs feel as if they are being attacked when you attach a harness. Rabbits relax more to the harness & it can be used for trips out, walks in the park/garden & even for shows. they dont react like a pig will to the harness. introduce the harness to you bunny slowly. There are lots of toys available in a wide range of shapes & size, but most are designed to appeal to humans & most pets have no use for them at all which is often a waste of the owners behalf. Toys help keep your pet from becoming bored. The best toys are usually tunnels, boxes, hides, rocks, toilet roll tubes, hawthorn branches ( with the thorns removed ), paper bags.
cleaning out -
your pet should be cleaned out at least weekly to prevent illness & smell. Remove uneaten veg daily. Spray your hutch & bowls with non toxic antibacterial spray, rinse with water & wipe til dry. NEVER use bleach or jeyds fluid. for a safe natural cleaner use 50/50 water & vinger OR lemon juice & baking soda. Line the cage with fresh sawdust and fill water bottles and feed dishes. Always fill the bedside or hide house with bedding everyday to keep them warm especially in winter. If you do not keep you pets home clean, maggots will use their home as a breeding ground. Always use an experienced pet owner, breeder or boarder to care for your pets when you are on holiday. as a friend may not be capable of spotting illness in your pet or carrying out basic care needs with ease. Clean water daily. always wash your hands after handling & cleaning out. rabbits are easier to potty train & a potty can be bought for the corner of your cage that you can clean out daily. add wood pellets or shavings to the potty. to house train - start by putting the potty in an area the rabbit uses often. put some dirty litter or droppings in the tray to encourage them to only soil in the potty. when the bunny is using the potty you can increse the range area. remember to provide more litter trays for larger areas. during summer months you can use pet friendly insect repellent in the cage corners.
Breeding -
Guinea pigs - i do not recommend breeding pigs unless you are quite experienced as it can be very difficult & upsetting. start breeding your sow at about 5-6 months of age & ideally 400-500grams. Never breed a sow after 8 months of age as her pelvic bones fuse making birthing dangerous & usually fatal. only breed your pig once or twice a year. NEVER over breed, as this will kill your sow. Make sure your pig is healthy & of idea weight. Put her on a quality diet. Pigs are in heat every 14-18 days. They carry for 58-72 days. Pregnancy in older pigs with fused pelvic bones will require a cesarean section which runs at a high risk of death for the sow, as she can not birth naturally. Normally pigsbirth in the early morning hours or late night hours they don't normally require assistance to birth. The babies will be born with a full coat, open eyes, be able to run & eat solid food although they will nurse from their mother for 2-3 weeks yet. The young are normally in no danger from their mother or other sows housed with them. I recommend seperating the boar once she starts showig signs of pregnancy, DO NOT keep him in with her as at the time of birthing she will become pregnant again, as the sow can conceive again within an hour of birthing. Litters vary from 1-8 but are usually 3-4. weaning is 14-28 days & Sows sexually mature between 4-5 weeks. Males 8-10 weeks so separate piglets at about 4 weeks old, hold them until 6 weeks in with their father & found new homes. Its important to handle the babies often to create a bond with humans. Piglets can be handled after 2 days old but gently. When breeding a sow there is a 20 percent chance she will die. Some expecting mummy pigs may suffer pregnancy toxemia commonly seen in stressed & heavily pregnant pigs that are 56 days or more into their pregnancy. Death from this condition may occur within 24 hours with no previous signs of illness. However some will show signs of a ruffed looking coat, dullness, lack of movement, cold or heavy stomach, lack of movement from the piglets inside, loss of appetite & squeaking in pain. This is usually fatal & there is no known cause for this. When breeding a pig of 5-8 months ideally have proven male or ensure you have a male twice her age for potency. One boar can be kept with up to 6 sows for breeding, but do be careful not to become over run. Please NEVER sell to bad breeders, pet stores or release unwanted pigs in the wild, its horribly cruel & they will meet a un-pleasant end.
Rabbits - Lionheads are rather easy to breed & make GREAT mothers too. having between 3-7 babies. It is crucial that you ONLY put the buck in with the doe when they are mating. DO NOT keep him in with her as she will birth roughly every 28 days & can conceive within an hour of birthing, meaning she will have a back to back pregnancy & deliver another litter 28 days later while still trying to raise her first litter. this is a very dangerous position for her to be in as she will have to share her milk between 2 litters of kits. this will drain her & she will fail to provide the best milk for her litters. If you lose the mother you will lose all the kits too so please do NOT let the buck near her again until the kits are weaned & ready to go to new homes. With a back to back pregnancy she may end up caring for 10 – 15 kits. Your doe may also kill her newborn kits to give her present litter the best chance of survival. If you find yourself in this situation & your doe is starting to LOSE WEIGHT trying to care for both litters you may need to destroy her new litter to give both her & her present kits a fighting chance. Its a horrible thing to have to do but it is usually necessary. Not all purebred lionhead will have manes this may seem odd, but when breeding 2 obvious purebred lionheads your litter may range from kittens with no manes to grand double manes. Kits start to show their manes between 4-5 weeks. At birth the mane & rear parts of the kits are bald but elsewhere they are furred. Quality of lionheads range from –
1. No mane & No body coat.
2. Single mane - small mane present of forehead but no body coat.
3. Double Mane - very fluffy around the neck and rump BUT eyes/face and body are visible
4. Grand double mane - a very fluffy thick coated rabbit resembling a small angora. eyes are hard to see.
You wont know the true coat & look of a lionhead until after 6 months, as they will shed a lot of their coat/mane after 6 months, those that dont are usually the grand double mane quality. hybrids are used to breed in traits a breeder may desire such as small size, small ears, thicker coats, colors & temperaments. It can be very hard to tell the difference between a purebred lionhead & a hybrid. these hybrids are also used in breeding to out breed weakness, strengthen the breeding stock & prevent ''peanut'' offspring which are deformed kits, that are either born dead or die under the age of 4 weeks. When breeding expect your doe to lose her mane & skirt. You should check kits between 2-5 weeks of age regular to prevent infection in the rump region. Breeding is not for the faint of heart as you will have to get used to losing kits & possibly does too.
UNECESSARY NEUTERING - i have come across some rescues & vets who are more then happy to neuter small pets. i can understand that they are trying to help keep down unwanted litters but i feel that neutering is unnecessary in guinea pigs. it has a high risk of the animal dying under the anesthetic, injury and its a stressful & painful experience for the poor little animal. there is no need to have this done if you want to avoid pregnancy just house your pigs separately. if you want a pair of pigs buy a same gender pair from a good breeder who can guarantee gender of your new pets. i do however recommend neutering a male rabbit as it stops unwanted behavior like mounting, fighting, spraying ect & they can then be housed with a female for company :)
BEWARE OF THE BIRDS - many guinea pigs & rabbits are killed or injured by birds (yes you read correctly BIRDS !!!) magpies, hawks, crows ect swoop down & carry off pigs in garden runs that are not secure. please just be aware of this when putting your piggies out for some nice juicy grass. also be careful of cats, dogs, ferrets ect who can dig, jump of knock over a run that is not secured well enough.
KEEPING MALES TOGETHER FOREVER - also many people contact me wanting 2 female guinea pigs as pets & to keep each other company. you can however house 2 males together quite happily with no problems at all. but the males must be either young when introduced or have grown up together. if you dont have any females in your home males will house together just fine. however if you have got females even if they dont live with the males the scent alone can cause aggressive fight to brake out amongst males. just to let everyone know males make top pets too sometimes even better pets then females. give the boys a chance .lol.
Male or Female - in guinea pigs males tend to be calmer & quieter then females. males also grown bigger making them easier to handler. they are happy just to sit & be petted. they CAN live happily together without females in the house. please DONT overlook a male they really are sweet. in rabbits males are very cheeky & sweet but may spray so it is best to have them neutered. Female rabbits can be a bit shy but & may suffer false pregnancies BUT its not usually a problem if they are well handled & have a good nature too
Everything you need to know to get started -
PREPAREING YOUR PET FOR EMERGENCIES
emergencies crop up from time to time some we see coming & some come out of the blue. being prepared could save your pets life.
grooming & bathing -
begin grooming your pig when it is young using a soft bristle brush ONLY ! Bathing can be done every 3 – 6 months. Don't bath too often. Fill a basin with 3-4 inches of Lukewarm water. Use shampoo specially made for guinea pigs. Avoid contact with the eyes or getting water down the ears. When you have finished, wrap your pig in a clean warm towel. Avoid using blow dryers, drafts or cold conditions. Don t put your pigin his home until he is completely dry. Ensure that there is no discharge from your pets eyes and that the claws are not to long. Be careful when bathing your pig as they can’t swim and may drown. When grooming always use a soft bristle brush for short coats & a comb for long coat breeds. Long haired pigs will need their coat grooming weekly & trimming every 2 months to keep their it from becoming matted or soiled, it also gives you pig a clean appearance. Pigs with soiled & matted coat are susceptible to SKIN & coat problems, they are also very susceptible to flystrike. this occurs when flies decide to lay their eggs in the damp soiled coat hair, then the eggs hatch, maggots will begin to bury themselves in your pigs skin, this WILL kill your pig, as the maggots release toxins & eat the pig from the inside out. You can prevent all skin & coat problems by keeping the coat trim, clean & brushed. You should also consider trimming the hair that comes over the face & eyes of Peruvians. so they can see better (unless you are showing at reg levels then the coat must be left untouched). Keep the claws clipped when necessary usually every 2 months. Start clipping your pigs claws at a young age to get them used to be clipped. I recommend having your breeder or vet clip the claws, because if you cut the quick it can be very painful for your pig & may require a vets touch to stop the bleeding. If you feel you have the experience to clip your pigs claws only use clippers designed for rabbits/cats/pigs. When clipping your pigsnails, if a nail is cut too short & it bleeds or is torn off by accident use styptic powder or a styptic pencil to stop the bleeding. Nails that are torn off should grow back after a month. If your pigs foot is swollen, bleeding or hot to the touch these are signs of infection.
Handling & exercise -
Use two hands to pick up your guinea pig. First, put one hand under his chest behind his front legs and gently cup your other hand under his hindquarters. Once you have a firm but gentle grip, lift your guinea pig. Then immediately pull your pet in to your chest or place him on your lap so he feels safe and doesn't thrash around. Always support the whole body of your little friend. Avoid putting him down on a tabletop or anywhere else where he could fall. Always Supervise your children while they sit on the floor and hold the family guinea pig in their laps. Or encourage your child to pet your pig while you hold him in your lap. As your child's understanding matures, he or she can learn to handle theguinea pig on their own. Male guinea pigs tend to be calmer and more docile then female’s but either will bring you joy. Never pick your pig up by the scruff of the neck, as this will damage the main veins in the back of the neck causing instant death to your new pet. Be careful when handling it a fall can cause serious harm or death to a pig. Respect your new friend, speak softly to your pet, hold it on your knee and stroke it gently. Your pig needs exercising every day. You can either allow him to run around your ROOM or you can get a run about 3’x 2’. indoor runs are very handy they are smaller & fold away for easy storage. use a fleece in the area of the run to prevent damage to floors & accidents. The number 1 killer of pigs is often our best friend the DOG. Dogs are fast, quiet & great diggers so ensure your dog is well socialized with your pig & if its required - take obedience classes with your dog to allow you better voice control over him. Be aware of other peoples dogs too. Cats are another worry, as they are so hard to control & can usually get in anywhere. magpies & birds of prey have been well known to swoop down & steal guinea pigs from runs killing or injuring them. A good steel out door run with a mesh lid & ground pegs is the best buy forany owner. Netting is no use as predators will just tear it. EXERCISE is a very important part of a pigs life, as often pigs become over weight living in a cage with no requirement to exercise. Once you have chosen a run be it indoor or out, you should also look to buy toys which stimulate your pig to exercise such as hay wheels, grazing cage & bell ball, wood chews, ladder hide houses ect. NEVER use a exercise wheel or ball for your pig these are designed for hamsters NOT pigs & you can inflict sever back injuries by forcing your pig to use them. hide food in lots of different places this will force you pig to think & to work on getting his meals making him bend & stretch to reach his goal. Pigsshould have on average 1 hour of run time daily (when possible). Never put a pig out in extreme cold, rain or sun instead use a indoor run.Pigs are diurnal this means they are active most of the day only sleeping for 4-6 hours a night. When you bring your pig home only handle him for a few minutes at a time & allow him the first night or 2 to himself to settle in. start bonding with him by offering him food from your hand & stroking him gently while he eats. Do not be concerned if her runs to hide. its natural for pigs to run for cover this is because of their flight instincts. Even the tamest pig will run to hide. Soon your pig will learn that your presence means food & a cuddle. When putting pigsoutside to play consider these things first, is the grass on your garden sprayed or treated ??? are there any toxic plants growing ???. Your children can be role models for visiting family and friends. Encourage your child to help new people meet your pet by explaining to them the proper way of acting around a guinea pig. Never allow loud or rough children to be in the same ROOM as your pigs this will cause them to become scared.
Breeds & colors -
pigs come in a wide variety of colors & coat types, with a type to suit all owners. colors patterns include – agouti, brindle, Dalmatian, dutch, Himalayan, tri, roan & many more. never ever breed to roans together, this will create the lethal gene in the offspring, which are born pure white but with a 50% chance of dying young & will have series of ailment from birth including – twisted teeth, blindness, deafness, deformed limbs, abnormal internal organs & much more. Roans should only ever be breed to solid colored pigs to prevent lethals. Breeds include – Peruvian, Abyssinian, sheltie, smooth, crested, texel, Rex, skinny, coronet, satin & much more.
A healthy Guinea Pig DIET -
The most important part of a pigs diet is HAY, hay and more hay! A healthy guinea pig diet should consist of 75% high quality timothy hay. The main reason timothy hay is so good is because it s high in fiber and low in protein and calcium (too much causes bladder stones). it requires a lot of chewing, keeping your pigs teeth nice and short! Avoid alfalfa hay & in feeds as it is too high in protein and calcium, which although are vital in a guinea pigs diet, too much can be harmful! Hay should always be sweet smelling not musty, never feed damp, moldy or dusty hay. The next 15-20% should be made up from vegetables and a little fruit. Fruit should be no more than a teaspoon per pigeveryday. All fruit & veg should be fed daily and should be thoroughly washed, organic if possible. The last 5-10% should consist of good quality nuggets made specifically for guinea pigs such as BURGESS EXCEL. About 1/8 of a cup per pig. Nut feeds prevent selective eating. Do not buy feed mixes, as these cause guinea pigs to be picky eaters and they usually lack fiber. they tend to be higher in protein, sugar and colors! Mix feeds tend to have sugary foods that contain that dreaded preservative enxothyxin! Avoid that preservative at all costs as it has been linked to cancer and all sorts in humans and animals! Mix feed are often very powdered & dusty. Guinea pigs will only pick at most these musili type brands of feed & so over half of these feeds are thrown out. Vitamin C supplements can be added to the drinking water always read the instructions carefully to avoid over dosing. Beware of some TREATS for pigs bought as pet stores as they are often very high in sugar so try the NATURAL TREATS BRAND. To help keep teeth short & healthy provide some twigs from an hawthorn or apple tree. don’t make it out of anything else as this can make your pet ill. Also you can use wooden toys specially made for pigs. Always provide fresh water daily. allow pigs to graze daily on good clean grass, but be aware of gardens in case they have been sprayed with weed killers. Never serve cold or wet vegetables, always serve them at room temperature and dry them off to avoid tummy upsets! Same goes with under or over ripe vegetables and never serve wilted or decaying vegetables. It must be remembered that guinea pigs have a delicate digestive system and any attempts to introduce vegetables should be done so gradually. If you do not know if your piggies have ever had fresh foods, assume they haven't and start right from the beginning. Start off by choosing ONE vegetable that isn't very watery, so celery leaves are good starter, and totally avoid watery vegetables like cucumber and all fruits for now. Offer a small piece, no more than a few mouthfuls in the morning/evening and if there appears to be no diarrhea, do so again the next morning/evening, using the same vegetable. Try this for several days and so long as there are no problems you can gradually increase the amount. If any diarrhea appears, leave for 3 days and start again. Always look for treats & food that has the highest fibre intake possible. For hot days put some of their favorite fruit & veg into ice cubes & freeze to give them a fun & cooling treat for long hot summer days. as food ages it naturally loses its VIT C content. Do not buy your pigsfood from bulk bins in your pet store as they are open to the air, are old feed, can be infected by people putting their hands in the feed & will have lost there VIT C content due to being open. Just as important do not buy more then 4 weeks food for your pig because if its open to the air for too long it too will lose its VIT C content.
Suitable fruits are: Apple (seedless, as seeds are toxic and don't overfeed as the apples' acid can cause blisters around your pigs mouth). Banana (should be limited to a rare monthly treat as it is too sugary and in excess upsets the gut flora). Orange (acid can also cause sores on the mouth feed in small amounts & NO PEEL) Blackberries. Blackcurrant's. Blueberries. Pear. Raspberries. Strawberries.Suitable Vegetables and plants are: Broccoli. Brussell Sprouts. Cabbage (In SMALL AMOUNTS). Carrots- including tops. Celery- cut small to avoid choking on stringy bits and include the leaves. Clover (white,NOT red as part of clover is used as rat poison ) so small amounts. Cucumber. Dandelion. Watercress. Suitable Herbs are: Basil. Coriander/cilantro. Lavender. Peppermint. parsley (not fool's parsley!). Rosemary. Sage. Thyme. Safe Flowers : Nasturtium. Rose. Sunflower. Safe plant leaves (rinsed and young- do not feed old, decaying leaves). Apple. Blackberry. Pear. Raspberry. Strawberry. Safe wood : Apple. Birch. Maple. Willow. Hawthorn.
Unsafe foods plants – almost ALL garden & household plants are poisonous.
AVOID: ANY PLANTS YOU ARE UNSURE OF
Guinea pigs cannot store or create their own vitamin C, so you'll need to add a supplement daily to prevent scurvy & other serious health issues. An adult guinea pig requires 10-20mg of vit C per day, double that if pregnant or unwell. Most guinea pig pellets contain extra vitaminC, but this alone may not be enough. Adding vit C to the water is not always the best way as vitamin C is destroyed in water! So it is much better to feed fresh vegetables high in vitamin C into THE DIET daily. You can also use children's chew-able vitamin C tablets crushed & sprinkled on your pigs food (50-100mg per day)
Piggy Garden -
organic foods are always preferred, but they can be costly, so why not grow some pig safe plants yourself, at least then you will know forsure they are pesticide free! It doesn't matter whether you have a big garden or just a balcony. Always grow the different plants in seperate pots to prevent certain plants from over growing the rest. You may also find yourself eating healthie & using the different herbs in your own dishes. There are many plants you can grow as you can see below:
List of things to buy your new pet -
Please don’t hesitate to call or mail me if you have any worries or questions about your new guinea pig. If for any reason you cant keep your guinea pig after purchase, I will be more then happy to take it back at any time as an unwanted pet where it will be safely housed & cared for until a suitable new home & owner can be found or live out the rest of its days with me. Have fun with your new friend and remember a little life is in your hands!
Where to get your new pet from –
Rescues - Rescues are a nice way of helping out the unwanted pet community. Often there are small pets needing a kind home, however most pets in rescues will be older, may have bad habits or require medication. There is ALWAYS a reason someone gave them away so think carefully about what may be wrong with the pet & what you may be expected to take on. Usually pets in a rescue are store pets which are often mass bred or in-bred & will have shorter lifespans. there are very few rescues who take in small pets so be prepared to travel. Ask the Rescue as many questions as you may need & see how much information they can provide you on the pets temperament, health, background & more. alot of rescued animals can still make LOVING pets & just need someone to take a chance on them :) Contact you local rescue for a list of rescues whom have or take in small pets. some people like myself rescue & take in unwanted small pets but im NOT a rescue or charity but often have rescued pets needing homes.
Beware of pet stores & bad breeders – I NEVER recommend buying at a pet store. Almost all pet stores use mass breeders who keep their pets in large groups where inbreeding occurs, creating weak offspring & breeding in genetic ailments & short life spans. They skimp on their pets care & needs to save on costs. Usually pets supplied to stores are rejects, they are unwell, pregnant, inbred & very often transported great distances causing un-necessary stress to the poor animal. If you buy from a store you will have much the same kinds of risks as buying from a bad breeder. I have come across many breeders selling pets FAR cheaper then private breeders, but often these breeders are housing their animals in poor, dark conditions, feeding them on cheap or wrong foods, not supplying fresh grass/veg/fruit & their animals are usually not raised right or handled. if a breeder is selling pets for 5, 10 or even 15 euro then QUESTION the breeder as to the amount of care, bedding, feed & more they supply to both their breeding stock & the babies - it is IMPOSSIBLE for a breeder to provide FULL CARE for their pets IF they are only charging a small amount for the babies. veg is quite expensive along with hay, bedding, treats, cages, vet care, treatments, dry food & more.Often their breeding females are repeatedly bred to the extent of physical exhaustion causing illness & even death of the poor mothers. A breeding Doe/Sow should not be covered in sores or be bald this is NOT natural for a breeding stock as some breeders may tell you. However it is natural for a breeding Doe rabbit to pull out her mane & belly hair to make a nest for her new babies. sadly babies are usually short lived or ill at time of purchase which brakes the hearts of their new owners who do not get the full pleasure of owning a happy healthypet. Lice, skin & breathing problems ect will cost the new owners much in vet fees. Rabbits are very hard to sex before 10 weeks of age this is a FACT & so they are usually sexed wrong or sold pregnant in stores or from bad breeders. The breeding stock used by bad breeders are of the lowest Quality. with poor bloodlines & poor health, in turn breeding these problems into their offspring. You are also at risk of buying pets too young or old. Never buy a pet you feel sorry for, I know its hard, but if you buy a neglected animal this only encourages bad breeders to breed even more, while you think you are doing a good thing keep in mind that for every pet you take home there is another poor animal to take its place. if a breeder doesn't appear to care too much or know anything about the animals they are selling then WORRY. Most pet stores only have a 24 - 48 hour return policy if the animal dies or is found to be ill, but most illnesses DONT show themselves in such a short period. standard quarantine is usually 2 weeks. Always remember pet stores are in the game for profit ONLY so if a pet in their care falls ill it is often left in a corner to die they will not take them to a vet as this costs MONEY. store & bad breeders pets are not usually handled at all so they tend to be timid & even aggressive. They may even be housed with other aggressive animals which can cause injuries, fear & even emotional problems. If you buy at a store you can NOT see the parents, you wont know the true history, bloodlines or temperament. Bad breeders & stores are unable to provide correct or helpful information for new owners & in FACT will often provide a buyer with bad information & tell a few lies to sell their animals (I know ive been lied to alot by stores) Remember that when breeders have rejected offspring that they cant breed, sell privately or show they often end up in the pet store. ask yourself why the breeders aren't selling or keeping them ???
- Finding the right Breeder - You can usually find breeders anywhere these days. local adverts, online classifieds or through a friend. i advise you to spend some time researching the breed you are SURE you want before setting out to find a breeder. i recommend you look online for a reputable breeder whom has a website to give you a small insight into the type of breeder they are BEFORE arranging a visit. Hobby Breeders – hobby breeders are people who on occasion breed a litter of small pets from their own pets. Some hobby breeders can have very good breeding parents but often wont be able to advise you on what you may need to know. Also most hobby breeders breed from store bought animals which are NOT suitable foundation stock to start with, which is continuing bad bloodlines. Most hobby breeders are children trying to make a little pocket money from breeding. you should always buy from a person over 18 years of age. Private Breeders – going to a private breeder is your best bet when looking for a pet that is healthy, well raised & from quality un-related bloodlines. Private breeders will be able to give you lifetime advice for your new pet. Good breeders take pride in carefully selecting their breeding stock & spending time matching good breeding pairs. I should also add that buying a purebred does not mean its any healthier, tamer or prettier then a cross breeds so keep in mind there are some stunning crosses available too :) the breeder should be able to sex your new pet for you. rabbits can be difficult BEFORE 10 weeks. guinea pigs can be sexed from birth & the gender should be guaranteed. I recommend visiting the breeders home, viewing the available pets, setup & the breeding stock. Never arrange to meet the breeder ''somewhere'' as they can easily sell you a sick pet & you have no way of knowing where they live. If the pets look happy in their environment & have a bond with their breeder then this Is a good indication that you have found a reputable breeder. Don't be afraid to ask lots of questions, a good breeder is always happy to spend time talking about their animals. Some people judge breeders harshly but there are GOOD BREEDERS out there for without these breeders there would be no quality pets available to buy. your breeder should offer a minimum of 2 weeks illness or return cover. A good breeder NEVER sells to stores as they want the best possible homes for their pets. Be careful of Breed or show Clubs who recommend a breeder to you as they usually have a hidden agenda. exhibiting show animals or being a Club member does not mean they are a good reputable breeder. sadly alot of SHOW breeders & club members in-bred their stock to create a LOOK in their breeding programs for showing by breeding the babies back to their own close relatives. this usually means they life span or health of the animals is compromised. because a show animal is not needed to live long OR be healthy as long as they can show for a short while & WIN. usually these animals are sold on or destroyed once their show career is over & they are no longer of use. breeders who practise culling offspring or In-breeding NEED to be avoided & shut down. THE VISIT - visiting a breeder's rabbitry or caviary is so important, as it can provide you with so much knowledge of the breeder & ideas on how best to care for your own pet. look at the SET UP which is the housing arrangement for the animals. is should be clean, bright & well maintained. sadly as hard as a breeder trys it is NATURAL for a bit of mess about the place BUT if the animals are in cramped cages, look dirty, have no food or water, or are in a dark environment then they are neglected. the pets available on sale should be active, happy, healthy & show signs of good care & raising. they should have clear bright eyes, clear nose, glossy soft coat, good WEIGHT & correct teeth. ANY signs of illness AVOID buying the animal this includes dull eyes, no interest in its surroundings, bad teeth, dull parted coat, under weight. the animal should also have a interest in both you as a new visitor & whats else is going on around it showing a desire to interact & explore. spend some time watching your possible new pet/s play. if you are buying it as a companion for another animal then ask your breeder if you can bring your pet along with you for the visit & bond them at the breeders home for the trip back home. some breeders would be worried about the risk of snuffles in rabbits but guinea pigs are usually no worry to bond at the breeders home.
- If you are not sure about the gender of you new pig do NOT take it to a vet or pet store as they will often mis-sex your pet, its better to buy from a breeder who will guarantee the gender of your pig or visit a breeder who will happily sex your pet for you. The life of yourguinea pig may depend on you knowing their correct gender (see breeding). never buy sick, bony or nervous pets. If you feel anything is wrong with a seller or the pig DO NOT BUY walk away.
guinea pigs - commonly suffer from minor problems like Lice, Mites & Fleas can cause scratching. Mites can be treated with ivermectin 1% one drop on the back of the ear. OR a simply human lice solution from the chemist, I use LYCLEAR CREME bath piggies, semi dry, apply creme DO NOT let them lick it off, wait 10 mins then wash off. repeat in 2 days if needed. for fungal infections another VERY common problem yet simple to treat use DAKTARIN cream available at your chemist, apply to the infected area twice a day for 3 days & then wait to see if hair starts to re-grow in that area. OR for more serious cases or cases of ringworm use Malsalab available from your vets. guinea pigs need to be handled with care & are NOT suitedable for young children under 10 years unless completely supervised & sitting calming. if a guinea falls from a hight of over 1ft they can break their short forelegs, break their jaw, break teeth & even break their necks.Pododermatitis (bumblefoot) is a swelling of one or more of the feet this can be caused by poor living conditions, lack of cleanliness, dryness in the feet, damage to the feet OR cages with wire bottoms. Aging pigs can sometimes get bumble foot even in a clean environment. Bumble foot is a painful problem that if left untreated can be fatal. it can usually be cured with a course of antibiotics from your vet. Avoid antibiotics which include amoxicillin & penicillen as these are toxic to pigs & some vets may not know this. Prevention is the best cure by keeping your pigs home clean, as bacteria from their droppings is often what causes bumblefoot. use a soothing cream on the feet like the paws range of ointments available from GG in the UK. A common problem with guinea pigs is barbering, the chewing of each others hair.. Barbering is often linked with stress due to lack of freedom, bordom, lack of hay & to many pigs being housed together. so feed extra hay because guinea pigs have a un-stoppable natural urge to always graze. prevent boredom by providing plenty of toys & hides. Be sure to rotate their toys & hides to give them a new adventure daily. The Signs of a healthy guinea pig are clean bright eyes, full chunky & slightly rounded body, soft full coat with no smell, eats & drinks normally with no difficulty, normal dropping with no smell or diarrhea. Its important that you give you pig a weekly check over to keep an eye out for illness, lice, overgrown teeth, WEIGHT maintenance & movement issues. So when you are cleaning out, take some time to give your pig a good check over. Pigs love the sun as much as we do & will lie out in it & soak up the warmth, but they are susceptible to sun stoke & sunburn on their little ears. so provide plenty of shade in the run & use a small dab of sudocrem or suncream on the ears to prevent them burning. coprophagy - eating their droppings normal & natural practice for them. The protein content of these droppings is important for the animals health and you should not stop them doing it. It can't transmit disease. usually this is done during the night-time anyways & if they are seen eating droppings too often they may be lacking much needed vitamins etc.Scurvy is a common problem in pigs who aren't getting the require amounts of VIT C this is fatal if left untreated. increase vit C levels at once & provide a clean, calm environment for the pig to regain his strength. Symptoms of scurvy include limping/hopping motions, dull/parting coat, resting on one side, screaming/whimpering when picked up & flaking skin. they MUST get fresh veg esp ones high in vit C to survive. Guinea pigs cannot pass any diseases to humans, but we can give them our colds, so if you have a cold, don’t breathe on your pet, and make sure to wash your hands before handling it. piggies are suseptable to the cold more so then rabbits & should be kept indoors from at least september until april. spaying or neutering is not ideal for guinea pigs has it carries a high risk of death while under anesthetic, injury, stress, its painful & often we see after surgery complications like infections that can be fatal. there is NO NEED to get this done with guinea pigs simply house them in same sex pairs to avoid unwnated litters. buy from an experienced breeder who can sex them correctly.
RABBITS - rabbits like all other animals can also suffer from a range of common ailments. hardier then guinea pigs with regards to the cold weather but must still be well bedded & preferablly indoors or inside a shed during the winter months. Canker - caused by tiny ear mites seen as a blackish, crusty discharge or build up inside the ear. shaking the head often & scratching is a clear sign to check the ears. you can purchases drops from your vets to treat. clean the rabbits home area well & disinfect to get rid of any mites. Coccidiosis - a serious & worrying illness which is caused by dirty living area, dirty drinking/food area or can be caught from other rabbits carrying the problem. the rabbit losses WEIGHT quickly, has diarrheoa & will sit hunched up & very sick looking. this can be prevented by feeding pellets with Coccidiostat added, avoid putting young rabbits under 5 months on grass, avoid weaning rabbits under 8 weeks & avoid mixing around/sharing rabbits housing. Pasterella - also known commonly as Snuffles as highly contagious virus that can wipe out an entire rabbitry in a few days. there is NO vaccination available to prevent this. a rabbit with snuffles MUST be isolated from all others & usually putting them to sleep is for the best even if they survive they WILL remain a carrier & infect healthy rabbits within breathing/touch distance. it can be caused by stress, a new rabbit that carries the illness being introduced to the home & poor ventalation. sadly some people rehome rabbits that have recovered from snuffles YET remain carriers for the virus & these rehomed rabbits infect other peoples healthy pets. signs are nasal discharge, weeping eyes, wet on the front feet from wiping their own eyes/nose & sneezing. if you intend to keep an infected & semi recovered rabbit it will require antibiotics for the rest of its life & you CAN NOT rehome, own other rabbits or even visit your local store without remembering to wash your hands well as not to spread the illness. Myxo - another highly contagious & lethal illness there is NO cure for this. signs are simalar to snuffles BUT they will also have other signs such as bulging eyes, puss filled swellings around the face & WEIGHT LOSS. they must be put to sleep humanly at your vet ASAP. there is a vaccination available to prevent this. Conjunctivitis is an inflammation of the eye can be caused by many things such as a buck spraying urine into the eye, draughts, ammonia, fumes, dust & even injuries. anti-inflammitry eye drops can be got at your vet to treat. does are likely to get this during mating with a buck so check her regulary. again heat stress can kill a rabbit quicker then you may think always provide plenty of shade on warm days. Rabbits with soiled hutches/cages or matted coats are susceptable to fly strike & skin rashes. fly-stike occurs in warmer weather when flies lay their eggs in the damp soiled area of coat, when the eggs hatch maggots begin to bury inside your rabbits skin & release toxins, cause infections, cause blood poisoning & eat them form the inside out. it can KILL so please inspect your pet regulary. please keep the coats well groomed or clipped. keep the house area dry & clean too every 3 - 7 days. Malloclusion - a worrying problem where a rabbits teeth become over-grown, mis-alined or start to grow odd ways. usually carried in the bloodlines so lways check a rabbits parents teeth too. provide checking wood, chewing blocks, rough hay & woods toys to reduce issues of over-growing teeth. NEVER EVER breed from a rabbit with malloclusion. like guinea pigs rabbits produce droppings called Caeotrophs which they eat usually at night to gain vitamins etc. so dont be alarmed by this. it you find these oddly colored droppings often in your pets cage then its likely they are receiving too much feed. if you see very soft, gooey or very smelly poo stuck to your rabbits hind or in the cage this is BAD NEWS & you must see a vet ASAP. young bunnies esp between 10-18 weeks are prone to tummy problems from stress, fresh greens, weaning, change in diet or infection of the gut. If you find your rabbit is lethargic, not eating and/or drinking, has diarrhea or constipation, a bloated stomach which may sound 'sloshy', a mucous discharge, and may be grinding his teeth (a sure sign of pain), you MUST get him to a vet
immediately. Sadly, death is all too common from these symptoms. rabbits can be vaccinated against viral haemorrhagic disease (VHD). Vaccinations are usually only necessary if you are showing, boarding or have other rabbits around you rabbit. However I have never vaccinated & have never had any problems
with either of these diseases. Spaying & Neutering are ideal ways to curb aggression in rabbits, unwanted beaviours like mounting, biting, chasing & false pregnancies too. its BEST to get at least the males neutered to reduce the rabbit pollulation sice a doe can have a litter of 5+ babies every 28 days if left in with a buck :( please remember that a buck can still be fertile up to 3 weeks after the Op & can still produce babies with your doe. this Op can be done at 14+ weeks for bucks & 5+ months for does. does can be susceptible to reproductive cancer so spaying will rule this risk out also. Most vets will happily take your MONEY to neuter your pigs even if it dies during the operation you will still have to pay for your vets time.
Housing -
NEVER EVER house a guinea pig with a rabbit. DONT DO IT ! i know many foolish pet stores, breeders & even rescues house them together but its VERY WRONG. rabbits & pigs have different dierty needs. pigs have no natural defences but rabbits have powerful hind legs, jaws & larger body mass which they often use to bully a pig :( this will result in a very un-happy & possibly injured pig. pigs & rabbits can not communicate to one another which can often lead to mis-understanding s what cause fights to break out. this is a more lonely & more risky life for your pig then being housed alone. housing these 2 pets together is a lazy owners way of keeping down costs & space. rabbits carry a bacteria called Bordetella which causes phneumonia in guinea pigs. pigs can cause snuffles/pasterella in rabbits. housing them together WILL reduce their lifespan by half. rabbits LOVE space so the bigger the hutch/cage the better nothing smaller then a 4x2ft for 2 small/medium bunnies & a 3x2ft for a single bunny. although i prefer a 6x2ft house a great size for 2 bunnies. guinea pigs require less ROOM but should still have at the least a 3x2ft cage/hutch preferablly 4x2ft for 2 piggies. bigger is always better of course so feel free to build them a dream home with C&C or wood. rabbits chew FAR MORE then guinea pigs so metal or heavy duty wooden hutches or indoor wire cages are BEST. most store bought hutches are made from soft wood & some even have a nice smelling additive sprayed on the wood to encourage chewing so you will need a new hucth every year if it even lasts you that long. line your new pets home with shavings, carefresh bedding or fleece. DONT use newspaper the ink can run & they can get sick from eating it. the housing should be placed in a draft free area, out of direct sunlight too. i recommend pets be housed indoors during colder months. your pet will need a run for excersie too. it should be secure, strong with a lid & base if possible. it should have a shaded part to protect from the sun also. indoor wire fold away runs are ideal too that can be lined with fleece. if you allow your pet to play in part of your home dont forget to PET PROOF the area be it the living room or spare room. remove all cables from reach, remove poisonous indoor plants & any other items that can be a risk to your pet. DONT allow them to play on the floor of a room that has been treated recently with harsh chemicals such as some floor cleaners, sprays or powders. keep your pets warm with a fleece cover at night DONT USE plastic covers some stores sell as they create condensation which can make your pets home damp & even lead to your pet being cold or ill. Never keep your pet in a used garage the fumes from cars can kill or make them sick. Never hosue them in glass green houses, conservatories, porches or polytunnels. guinea pigs LOVE to hide so they should have a hide house available in their home for when they need to feel safe.
toys -
Never use a guinea pig harness, which you will often see in pet stores. these are cruel & often will ruin a bond with your pig. Pigs feel as if they are being attacked when you attach a harness. Rabbits relax more to the harness & it can be used for trips out, walks in the park/garden & even for shows. they dont react like a pig will to the harness. introduce the harness to you bunny slowly. There are lots of toys available in a wide range of shapes & size, but most are designed to appeal to humans & most pets have no use for them at all which is often a waste of the owners behalf. Toys help keep your pet from becoming bored. The best toys are usually tunnels, boxes, hides, rocks, toilet roll tubes, hawthorn branches ( with the thorns removed ), paper bags.
cleaning out -
your pet should be cleaned out at least weekly to prevent illness & smell. Remove uneaten veg daily. Spray your hutch & bowls with non toxic antibacterial spray, rinse with water & wipe til dry. NEVER use bleach or jeyds fluid. for a safe natural cleaner use 50/50 water & vinger OR lemon juice & baking soda. Line the cage with fresh sawdust and fill water bottles and feed dishes. Always fill the bedside or hide house with bedding everyday to keep them warm especially in winter. If you do not keep you pets home clean, maggots will use their home as a breeding ground. Always use an experienced pet owner, breeder or boarder to care for your pets when you are on holiday. as a friend may not be capable of spotting illness in your pet or carrying out basic care needs with ease. Clean water daily. always wash your hands after handling & cleaning out. rabbits are easier to potty train & a potty can be bought for the corner of your cage that you can clean out daily. add wood pellets or shavings to the potty. to house train - start by putting the potty in an area the rabbit uses often. put some dirty litter or droppings in the tray to encourage them to only soil in the potty. when the bunny is using the potty you can increse the range area. remember to provide more litter trays for larger areas. during summer months you can use pet friendly insect repellent in the cage corners.
Breeding -
Guinea pigs - i do not recommend breeding pigs unless you are quite experienced as it can be very difficult & upsetting. start breeding your sow at about 5-6 months of age & ideally 400-500grams. Never breed a sow after 8 months of age as her pelvic bones fuse making birthing dangerous & usually fatal. only breed your pig once or twice a year. NEVER over breed, as this will kill your sow. Make sure your pig is healthy & of idea weight. Put her on a quality diet. Pigs are in heat every 14-18 days. They carry for 58-72 days. Pregnancy in older pigs with fused pelvic bones will require a cesarean section which runs at a high risk of death for the sow, as she can not birth naturally. Normally pigsbirth in the early morning hours or late night hours they don't normally require assistance to birth. The babies will be born with a full coat, open eyes, be able to run & eat solid food although they will nurse from their mother for 2-3 weeks yet. The young are normally in no danger from their mother or other sows housed with them. I recommend seperating the boar once she starts showig signs of pregnancy, DO NOT keep him in with her as at the time of birthing she will become pregnant again, as the sow can conceive again within an hour of birthing. Litters vary from 1-8 but are usually 3-4. weaning is 14-28 days & Sows sexually mature between 4-5 weeks. Males 8-10 weeks so separate piglets at about 4 weeks old, hold them until 6 weeks in with their father & found new homes. Its important to handle the babies often to create a bond with humans. Piglets can be handled after 2 days old but gently. When breeding a sow there is a 20 percent chance she will die. Some expecting mummy pigs may suffer pregnancy toxemia commonly seen in stressed & heavily pregnant pigs that are 56 days or more into their pregnancy. Death from this condition may occur within 24 hours with no previous signs of illness. However some will show signs of a ruffed looking coat, dullness, lack of movement, cold or heavy stomach, lack of movement from the piglets inside, loss of appetite & squeaking in pain. This is usually fatal & there is no known cause for this. When breeding a pig of 5-8 months ideally have proven male or ensure you have a male twice her age for potency. One boar can be kept with up to 6 sows for breeding, but do be careful not to become over run. Please NEVER sell to bad breeders, pet stores or release unwanted pigs in the wild, its horribly cruel & they will meet a un-pleasant end.
Rabbits - Lionheads are rather easy to breed & make GREAT mothers too. having between 3-7 babies. It is crucial that you ONLY put the buck in with the doe when they are mating. DO NOT keep him in with her as she will birth roughly every 28 days & can conceive within an hour of birthing, meaning she will have a back to back pregnancy & deliver another litter 28 days later while still trying to raise her first litter. this is a very dangerous position for her to be in as she will have to share her milk between 2 litters of kits. this will drain her & she will fail to provide the best milk for her litters. If you lose the mother you will lose all the kits too so please do NOT let the buck near her again until the kits are weaned & ready to go to new homes. With a back to back pregnancy she may end up caring for 10 – 15 kits. Your doe may also kill her newborn kits to give her present litter the best chance of survival. If you find yourself in this situation & your doe is starting to LOSE WEIGHT trying to care for both litters you may need to destroy her new litter to give both her & her present kits a fighting chance. Its a horrible thing to have to do but it is usually necessary. Not all purebred lionhead will have manes this may seem odd, but when breeding 2 obvious purebred lionheads your litter may range from kittens with no manes to grand double manes. Kits start to show their manes between 4-5 weeks. At birth the mane & rear parts of the kits are bald but elsewhere they are furred. Quality of lionheads range from –
1. No mane & No body coat.
2. Single mane - small mane present of forehead but no body coat.
3. Double Mane - very fluffy around the neck and rump BUT eyes/face and body are visible
4. Grand double mane - a very fluffy thick coated rabbit resembling a small angora. eyes are hard to see.
You wont know the true coat & look of a lionhead until after 6 months, as they will shed a lot of their coat/mane after 6 months, those that dont are usually the grand double mane quality. hybrids are used to breed in traits a breeder may desire such as small size, small ears, thicker coats, colors & temperaments. It can be very hard to tell the difference between a purebred lionhead & a hybrid. these hybrids are also used in breeding to out breed weakness, strengthen the breeding stock & prevent ''peanut'' offspring which are deformed kits, that are either born dead or die under the age of 4 weeks. When breeding expect your doe to lose her mane & skirt. You should check kits between 2-5 weeks of age regular to prevent infection in the rump region. Breeding is not for the faint of heart as you will have to get used to losing kits & possibly does too.
UNECESSARY NEUTERING - i have come across some rescues & vets who are more then happy to neuter small pets. i can understand that they are trying to help keep down unwanted litters but i feel that neutering is unnecessary in guinea pigs. it has a high risk of the animal dying under the anesthetic, injury and its a stressful & painful experience for the poor little animal. there is no need to have this done if you want to avoid pregnancy just house your pigs separately. if you want a pair of pigs buy a same gender pair from a good breeder who can guarantee gender of your new pets. i do however recommend neutering a male rabbit as it stops unwanted behavior like mounting, fighting, spraying ect & they can then be housed with a female for company :)
BEWARE OF THE BIRDS - many guinea pigs & rabbits are killed or injured by birds (yes you read correctly BIRDS !!!) magpies, hawks, crows ect swoop down & carry off pigs in garden runs that are not secure. please just be aware of this when putting your piggies out for some nice juicy grass. also be careful of cats, dogs, ferrets ect who can dig, jump of knock over a run that is not secured well enough.
KEEPING MALES TOGETHER FOREVER - also many people contact me wanting 2 female guinea pigs as pets & to keep each other company. you can however house 2 males together quite happily with no problems at all. but the males must be either young when introduced or have grown up together. if you dont have any females in your home males will house together just fine. however if you have got females even if they dont live with the males the scent alone can cause aggressive fight to brake out amongst males. just to let everyone know males make top pets too sometimes even better pets then females. give the boys a chance .lol.
Male or Female - in guinea pigs males tend to be calmer & quieter then females. males also grown bigger making them easier to handler. they are happy just to sit & be petted. they CAN live happily together without females in the house. please DONT overlook a male they really are sweet. in rabbits males are very cheeky & sweet but may spray so it is best to have them neutered. Female rabbits can be a bit shy but & may suffer false pregnancies BUT its not usually a problem if they are well handled & have a good nature too
Everything you need to know to get started -
PREPAREING YOUR PET FOR EMERGENCIES
emergencies crop up from time to time some we see coming & some come out of the blue. being prepared could save your pets life.
- Have a suitable hard plastic, wood or metal carrier. not too big & not too small. line with towels or shavings then put aside READY.
- Have a water bottle with clip, feed dish, some food & even treats inside the carrier.
- have ready to bring along a miniature medical kit & towel for your pet.
- a small collapsable run is also a good idea & can double as a cage for indoors.
- All your pets health records, medical needs & photo of your pet if they should become lost so you can show this to rescues etc
- Two litres of fresh bottle water
- Have names, numbers & address of people who can care for your pet in an emergency such as family, friends or boarding.
- Have a list of vets in your area - name, number & address of their practises. this info is also handy for your pets carers to have handy.
grooming & bathing -
begin grooming your pig when it is young using a soft bristle brush ONLY ! Bathing can be done every 3 – 6 months. Don't bath too often. Fill a basin with 3-4 inches of Lukewarm water. Use shampoo specially made for guinea pigs. Avoid contact with the eyes or getting water down the ears. When you have finished, wrap your pig in a clean warm towel. Avoid using blow dryers, drafts or cold conditions. Don t put your pigin his home until he is completely dry. Ensure that there is no discharge from your pets eyes and that the claws are not to long. Be careful when bathing your pig as they can’t swim and may drown. When grooming always use a soft bristle brush for short coats & a comb for long coat breeds. Long haired pigs will need their coat grooming weekly & trimming every 2 months to keep their it from becoming matted or soiled, it also gives you pig a clean appearance. Pigs with soiled & matted coat are susceptible to SKIN & coat problems, they are also very susceptible to flystrike. this occurs when flies decide to lay their eggs in the damp soiled coat hair, then the eggs hatch, maggots will begin to bury themselves in your pigs skin, this WILL kill your pig, as the maggots release toxins & eat the pig from the inside out. You can prevent all skin & coat problems by keeping the coat trim, clean & brushed. You should also consider trimming the hair that comes over the face & eyes of Peruvians. so they can see better (unless you are showing at reg levels then the coat must be left untouched). Keep the claws clipped when necessary usually every 2 months. Start clipping your pigs claws at a young age to get them used to be clipped. I recommend having your breeder or vet clip the claws, because if you cut the quick it can be very painful for your pig & may require a vets touch to stop the bleeding. If you feel you have the experience to clip your pigs claws only use clippers designed for rabbits/cats/pigs. When clipping your pigsnails, if a nail is cut too short & it bleeds or is torn off by accident use styptic powder or a styptic pencil to stop the bleeding. Nails that are torn off should grow back after a month. If your pigs foot is swollen, bleeding or hot to the touch these are signs of infection.
Handling & exercise -
Use two hands to pick up your guinea pig. First, put one hand under his chest behind his front legs and gently cup your other hand under his hindquarters. Once you have a firm but gentle grip, lift your guinea pig. Then immediately pull your pet in to your chest or place him on your lap so he feels safe and doesn't thrash around. Always support the whole body of your little friend. Avoid putting him down on a tabletop or anywhere else where he could fall. Always Supervise your children while they sit on the floor and hold the family guinea pig in their laps. Or encourage your child to pet your pig while you hold him in your lap. As your child's understanding matures, he or she can learn to handle theguinea pig on their own. Male guinea pigs tend to be calmer and more docile then female’s but either will bring you joy. Never pick your pig up by the scruff of the neck, as this will damage the main veins in the back of the neck causing instant death to your new pet. Be careful when handling it a fall can cause serious harm or death to a pig. Respect your new friend, speak softly to your pet, hold it on your knee and stroke it gently. Your pig needs exercising every day. You can either allow him to run around your ROOM or you can get a run about 3’x 2’. indoor runs are very handy they are smaller & fold away for easy storage. use a fleece in the area of the run to prevent damage to floors & accidents. The number 1 killer of pigs is often our best friend the DOG. Dogs are fast, quiet & great diggers so ensure your dog is well socialized with your pig & if its required - take obedience classes with your dog to allow you better voice control over him. Be aware of other peoples dogs too. Cats are another worry, as they are so hard to control & can usually get in anywhere. magpies & birds of prey have been well known to swoop down & steal guinea pigs from runs killing or injuring them. A good steel out door run with a mesh lid & ground pegs is the best buy forany owner. Netting is no use as predators will just tear it. EXERCISE is a very important part of a pigs life, as often pigs become over weight living in a cage with no requirement to exercise. Once you have chosen a run be it indoor or out, you should also look to buy toys which stimulate your pig to exercise such as hay wheels, grazing cage & bell ball, wood chews, ladder hide houses ect. NEVER use a exercise wheel or ball for your pig these are designed for hamsters NOT pigs & you can inflict sever back injuries by forcing your pig to use them. hide food in lots of different places this will force you pig to think & to work on getting his meals making him bend & stretch to reach his goal. Pigsshould have on average 1 hour of run time daily (when possible). Never put a pig out in extreme cold, rain or sun instead use a indoor run.Pigs are diurnal this means they are active most of the day only sleeping for 4-6 hours a night. When you bring your pig home only handle him for a few minutes at a time & allow him the first night or 2 to himself to settle in. start bonding with him by offering him food from your hand & stroking him gently while he eats. Do not be concerned if her runs to hide. its natural for pigs to run for cover this is because of their flight instincts. Even the tamest pig will run to hide. Soon your pig will learn that your presence means food & a cuddle. When putting pigsoutside to play consider these things first, is the grass on your garden sprayed or treated ??? are there any toxic plants growing ???. Your children can be role models for visiting family and friends. Encourage your child to help new people meet your pet by explaining to them the proper way of acting around a guinea pig. Never allow loud or rough children to be in the same ROOM as your pigs this will cause them to become scared.
Breeds & colors -
pigs come in a wide variety of colors & coat types, with a type to suit all owners. colors patterns include – agouti, brindle, Dalmatian, dutch, Himalayan, tri, roan & many more. never ever breed to roans together, this will create the lethal gene in the offspring, which are born pure white but with a 50% chance of dying young & will have series of ailment from birth including – twisted teeth, blindness, deafness, deformed limbs, abnormal internal organs & much more. Roans should only ever be breed to solid colored pigs to prevent lethals. Breeds include – Peruvian, Abyssinian, sheltie, smooth, crested, texel, Rex, skinny, coronet, satin & much more.
A healthy Guinea Pig DIET -
The most important part of a pigs diet is HAY, hay and more hay! A healthy guinea pig diet should consist of 75% high quality timothy hay. The main reason timothy hay is so good is because it s high in fiber and low in protein and calcium (too much causes bladder stones). it requires a lot of chewing, keeping your pigs teeth nice and short! Avoid alfalfa hay & in feeds as it is too high in protein and calcium, which although are vital in a guinea pigs diet, too much can be harmful! Hay should always be sweet smelling not musty, never feed damp, moldy or dusty hay. The next 15-20% should be made up from vegetables and a little fruit. Fruit should be no more than a teaspoon per pigeveryday. All fruit & veg should be fed daily and should be thoroughly washed, organic if possible. The last 5-10% should consist of good quality nuggets made specifically for guinea pigs such as BURGESS EXCEL. About 1/8 of a cup per pig. Nut feeds prevent selective eating. Do not buy feed mixes, as these cause guinea pigs to be picky eaters and they usually lack fiber. they tend to be higher in protein, sugar and colors! Mix feeds tend to have sugary foods that contain that dreaded preservative enxothyxin! Avoid that preservative at all costs as it has been linked to cancer and all sorts in humans and animals! Mix feed are often very powdered & dusty. Guinea pigs will only pick at most these musili type brands of feed & so over half of these feeds are thrown out. Vitamin C supplements can be added to the drinking water always read the instructions carefully to avoid over dosing. Beware of some TREATS for pigs bought as pet stores as they are often very high in sugar so try the NATURAL TREATS BRAND. To help keep teeth short & healthy provide some twigs from an hawthorn or apple tree. don’t make it out of anything else as this can make your pet ill. Also you can use wooden toys specially made for pigs. Always provide fresh water daily. allow pigs to graze daily on good clean grass, but be aware of gardens in case they have been sprayed with weed killers. Never serve cold or wet vegetables, always serve them at room temperature and dry them off to avoid tummy upsets! Same goes with under or over ripe vegetables and never serve wilted or decaying vegetables. It must be remembered that guinea pigs have a delicate digestive system and any attempts to introduce vegetables should be done so gradually. If you do not know if your piggies have ever had fresh foods, assume they haven't and start right from the beginning. Start off by choosing ONE vegetable that isn't very watery, so celery leaves are good starter, and totally avoid watery vegetables like cucumber and all fruits for now. Offer a small piece, no more than a few mouthfuls in the morning/evening and if there appears to be no diarrhea, do so again the next morning/evening, using the same vegetable. Try this for several days and so long as there are no problems you can gradually increase the amount. If any diarrhea appears, leave for 3 days and start again. Always look for treats & food that has the highest fibre intake possible. For hot days put some of their favorite fruit & veg into ice cubes & freeze to give them a fun & cooling treat for long hot summer days. as food ages it naturally loses its VIT C content. Do not buy your pigsfood from bulk bins in your pet store as they are open to the air, are old feed, can be infected by people putting their hands in the feed & will have lost there VIT C content due to being open. Just as important do not buy more then 4 weeks food for your pig because if its open to the air for too long it too will lose its VIT C content.
Suitable fruits are: Apple (seedless, as seeds are toxic and don't overfeed as the apples' acid can cause blisters around your pigs mouth). Banana (should be limited to a rare monthly treat as it is too sugary and in excess upsets the gut flora). Orange (acid can also cause sores on the mouth feed in small amounts & NO PEEL) Blackberries. Blackcurrant's. Blueberries. Pear. Raspberries. Strawberries.Suitable Vegetables and plants are: Broccoli. Brussell Sprouts. Cabbage (In SMALL AMOUNTS). Carrots- including tops. Celery- cut small to avoid choking on stringy bits and include the leaves. Clover (white,NOT red as part of clover is used as rat poison ) so small amounts. Cucumber. Dandelion. Watercress. Suitable Herbs are: Basil. Coriander/cilantro. Lavender. Peppermint. parsley (not fool's parsley!). Rosemary. Sage. Thyme. Safe Flowers : Nasturtium. Rose. Sunflower. Safe plant leaves (rinsed and young- do not feed old, decaying leaves). Apple. Blackberry. Pear. Raspberry. Strawberry. Safe wood : Apple. Birch. Maple. Willow. Hawthorn.
Unsafe foods plants – almost ALL garden & household plants are poisonous.
AVOID: ANY PLANTS YOU ARE UNSURE OF
- Buttercups. Clover (red). Cherry tree wood. Corn. Grapes - not toxic in small amounts, and some people feed them, but they can cause adverse effects, especially red grapes, hence toxic to dogs. Lemons and limes. Lettuce it contains a substance called laudanum which can be harmful and even fatal (causes diarrhea, causes colic due to high acid rate). Peas. Peach leaves and wood. Plum leaves and wood. Potato. Primrose. Raw Potato and potato leaves. Raisins. Red Clover. Rhubarb including leaves and stalk. Tomato leaves. Woodsorrel. Yew. Onion (toxic), dairy foods, hot peppers, mushrooms, rhubarb, avocado, white bread, nuts, uncooked beans, chocolate, pears Anything else you are unsure about - If In Doubt, Leave It Out!
Guinea pigs cannot store or create their own vitamin C, so you'll need to add a supplement daily to prevent scurvy & other serious health issues. An adult guinea pig requires 10-20mg of vit C per day, double that if pregnant or unwell. Most guinea pig pellets contain extra vitaminC, but this alone may not be enough. Adding vit C to the water is not always the best way as vitamin C is destroyed in water! So it is much better to feed fresh vegetables high in vitamin C into THE DIET daily. You can also use children's chew-able vitamin C tablets crushed & sprinkled on your pigs food (50-100mg per day)
Piggy Garden -
organic foods are always preferred, but they can be costly, so why not grow some pig safe plants yourself, at least then you will know forsure they are pesticide free! It doesn't matter whether you have a big garden or just a balcony. Always grow the different plants in seperate pots to prevent certain plants from over growing the rest. You may also find yourself eating healthie & using the different herbs in your own dishes. There are many plants you can grow as you can see below:
- Naturiums- These are my favorite they are very easy to grow. both guinea pigs and humans can eat the leaves and flowers!Dandelions – most people have dandelions growing in their garden but if not they can easily be found growing wild. Grow your own if you prefer. Grass – you can gather fresh grass daily from your garden or from a quick trip to the countryside. If you prefer you can grown grass yourself & cut with scissors. Never feed mown grass, as it starts to decay quickly and has been known to cause bloat! It also has gone through the oily parts of the lawn mower, so thats a double no! Mint - Mint is easy to grow. It is prone to attacks from aphids, so keep a close eye on the undersides of leaves for small green or black bugs and yellow spots on the top of the leaves. Basil -pigs should have occasionally in small amounts. Dont plant outside as the slugs go mad for it. Parsley -Flat leafed variety tends to be the most popular, also easy to grow! Camomile -A fruity smelling herb, that is also very easy to grow and smells lovely. I grow it in 4-5 separate small pots and give the cavies one pot every few days, and the best bit is, it keeps growing back! So you can have one batch of seeds that last through the spring and summer season! Coriander - Coriander (cilantro) is a easy, tasty herb that we can grow andpigs seem to love the stuff! Strawberries -Strawberries are great, because we humans can enjoy the tasty fruits, and our guineas can happily eat the leaves and the odd strawberry as a treat. Wheatgrass - Can be found in health food shops, or in pet shops sometimes advertised as 'cat grass'. It is relatively easy to grow and is a great health boost to pigs when fed fresh. Can also be fed to cats, dogs, rabbits and rodents and us! Rosemary - A hardy herb that pigs will happily munch on fresh & slugs wont destroy it due to its unique smell! Thyme - a hardy herb like Rosemary that pigs enjoy!
List of things to buy your new pet -
- information leaflets, care sheets & books on pigs
- large cage 3x2 ft or bigger
- a hide house
- ceramic feed bowl – plastic bowls get chewed
- hayrack
- water bottle – must have a solid metal spout to prevent being chewed & leaking
- sawdust or care fresh bedding
- guinea pig high vit C pellet food – pellets prevent selective eating. NEVER feed rabbit or hamster food
- hay – for feed purposes buy meadow, timothy or herb hay
- hay – for bedding purposes – buy cheaper harder hay. NEVER use straw it can cause sever eye injuries
- dried herbs & treats
- mineral stone
- vitamin C supplement
- chew – wooden chew made from fruit or hawthorn tree ONLY
- groom kit – soft bristle brush, high absorbent towel, pig shampoo, scissors, nail clippers, basin, jug
- cage cleaner – gentle disinfection designed for use in pig homes
- run – strong, heavy well built run with lid/cover
- selection of toys – including hides, tunnels, rocks, branches, bell feed balls
- a loving caring kind home for the rest of its life where he will be loved, handled & cared for daily
Please don’t hesitate to call or mail me if you have any worries or questions about your new guinea pig. If for any reason you cant keep your guinea pig after purchase, I will be more then happy to take it back at any time as an unwanted pet where it will be safely housed & cared for until a suitable new home & owner can be found or live out the rest of its days with me. Have fun with your new friend and remember a little life is in your hands!